The only reasonable choice is a Howell movement of 3 long rounds, which can be played as a full 27 board game (9 per round) or a shorter 21 or 24-board game (7 or 8 per round). There is one stationary pair, #4 at table 1 NS. If you have table mats guide cards for this movement, you must check table two's card and ensure that ACBLscore is correctly set for a Standard (in round one, pair 3 is NS, pair 2 EW) or Alternate (pair 2 is NS, pair 3 EW) 3-table Howell. This movement has both tables sharing boards in each round. It's a good idea for the director to shuffle the round two and three boards in advance and make copies if possible.

Another option is a two-table, one-winner individual. Seven rounds of four boards are played, boards shared between the two tables and shuffled at the start of the round. NSEW at tables 1 and 2 are number 8, 1, 6, 2; and 5, 7, 3, 4. Player 8 is stationary at 1 NS, the rest move each round on this cycle: 1S>2S>1E>2N>2W>2E>1W>1S. The director can collect scores and compare them as the players shuffle for the next round and post updated standings.

Since top on a board is one, both the pairs game and the individual game are effectively a board-a-match. Some players may prefer to play this as IMP pairs, which you can change to on the Set Config menu item "Change Scoring Method" (select "Total IMPs").

The only reasonable choice for five pairs is a three-table Howell with a phantom pair. Each pair has to sit out for five boards, which is such a poor option that it is worth some effort to find another nearby pair to join the game. If such a pair cannot be found, one option is to split the game up so the sit outs are not as long. Play rounds 1-4 with only the first three boards of the five in play, score these boards, then play rounds 1-4 again with the last two boards in play. The pair with the last round sit out can now go home, or watch the final round, or enter the scores from the preceding rounds.

Another option is to switch to an ten-player, one-winner individual game. This game breaks up the pairs (they do get to play with one another once during the game) but has several advantages: the two players sitting out each round can watch the boards being played at other tables, the boards are scored at the end of each round so players can track their progress, and each player has two sit outs several rounds apart, for only two or three boards.

Since top on a board is one, either game is effectively a board-a-match. Some players may prefer to play this as IMP pairs, which you can change to on the Set Config menu item "Change Scoring Method" (select "Total IMPs").

The only reasonable choice is a Howell movement of 5 rounds, which can be played as a full 25 board game (5 per round) or a shorter 20-board game (4 per round). There is one stationary pair, #6 at table 1 NS. If you have guide cards for this movement, you must check table two's card and ensure that ACBLscore is correctly set for a Standard (in round one, pair 4 is NS, pair 3 EW) or Alternate (pair 3 is NS, pair 4 EW) 3-table Howell. This movement has all three tables sharing the final set of boards in the last round. It's a good idea for the director to shuffle these boards in advance and make copies if possible.

It is possible to run a Mitchell with three rounds of 8 or 9 boards, but an hour or more against the same opponents hardly feels like matchpoints. The Howell is not difficult to run and the final round can be a quite exciting conclusion.

Since one of the seven pairs will have to sit out each round, the seven-round, four-table Howell is the best option, but the six-round four-table Howell can also be played if you have two pairs that insist on stationary tables. Since these are long, four-board sit outs, it is best to try to find a nearby pair and convert to four tables if you can.

The only reasonable choice is a Howell movement of 7 rounds, which can be played as a full 28 board game (4 per round) or a shorter 21-board game (3 per round). There is one stationary pair, #8 at table 1 NS. If you have guide cards for this movement, you must check table two's card and ensure that ACBLscore is correctly set for a Standard (in round one, pair 3 is NS, pair 6 EW) or Alternate (pair 6 is NS, pair 3 EW) 4-table Howell.

A second choice is an six-round Howell with two stationary pairs and only 24 boards in play. This has stationary pairs at 1NS and 2NS (switching to 2EW for the last three rounds) and tables 1 and 2 share boards each round.

A distant third option is a "Square Mitchell," available in 'External Pairs,' which you might run if you have multiple pairs needing a stationary table, or want to avoid the irregular movements during round changes that Howell movements have. This movement has stationary NS pairs, slightly irregular moves for the EW pairs, and only four long rounds of six or seven boards each. The big drawback is that every pair plays only four of the other seven pairs. It is better than a bye stand and relay four table Mitchell, which has only three even longer rounds.

A sit out of three boards is much better than a sit out of five boards, so the nine-round, five-table Howell is the better choice. The eight-round Howell is an option, but the nine is preferred since all pairs sit out once.

The usual choice is a Howell movement of 9 rounds, which can be played as a full 27 board game (3 per round) or a much shorter 18-board game (2 per round). There is one stationary pair, #10 at table 1 NS. If you have guide cards for this movement, you must check table two's card and ensure that ACBLscore is correctly set for a Standard (in round one, pair 5 is NS, pair 2 EW) or Alternate (pair 2 is NS, pair 5 EW) 5-table Howell.

A Howell of 8-rounds, with an extra stationary pair, is also an option for clubs wishing to play only 24 boards.

A two-winner Mitchell game is available and is often used for novice games, or games where there are multiple pairs needing a stationary table. Simply put five boards at each table and five rounds later you will have a N-S and an E-W winner.

The best option is a 9-round Howell movement, with nine pairs sitting out for three boards of the 27 and two others playing all 27. NS 1, 2, and 3 are stationary, but you should print a guide card slip for pairs 10 and 11 (NS 2 and 3), and ensure that they switch to EW when indicated.

Another possibility for 8 rounds is an 8-round Howell movement. In addition to NS 1, 2 and 3, pair 9 (EW 4) is a fourth stationary pair which switches to NS and back several times during the game. This would be a good choice if your players are unlikely to complete a 9-round, 27-board game in the time available and keeps the length of the sit out at three boards only.

Howell haters can run a six table Bye stand Mitchell. This is a four-board sit out and pairs that sit out will play only 20 boards. Sharing can be eliminated by arranging it so that there is an E-W sit out at one of the tables that would share boards if there were six full tables.

The best movement is a 9-round Howell movement. NS 1, 2, and 3 are stationary, but you should print a guide card slip for pairs 10 and 11 (NS 2 and 3), and ensure that they switch to EW when indicated.

For 24 boards only, one solution is a Bye stand Mitchell. This is a two-winner game and two tables will have to share boards each round. But with four boards in a round, this is seldom a problem.

Another possibility for 8 rounds is an 8-round Howell movement. In addition to NS 1, 2 and 3, pair 9 (EW 4) is a fourth stationary pair which switches to NS and back several times during the game.

The best movement is a 6.5 table (13 pairs) Howell movement. There are 13 rounds of 2 boards (26 boards) with each pair having to sit out for only one round (two boards). This is the fairest and most competitive movement as each pair plays all the other pairs. You will need to print out a guide card slip for each pair. If time is short, you can stop after 12 rounds. If you are a playing director, you should arrange to sit out during the last round or second last round so you can enter scores. Only the pair starting at 4NS is stationary, so this an be a very slow game with 13 rounds and 13 pairs having to find their places for each new round.

The safest and easiest movement is a 7 table Mitchell movement with one sit-out pair. You can run this with 3 boards per round (21 boards) or 4 boards per round (28 boards). The problem is that the sit-out pair has to sit out 3 or 4 boards at a time. Most players do not like this. There are winners in both NS and EW directions. This is the safest movement for directors less familiar with the Howell or relay/bye stand rover movement, and the best movement for shorter novice and intermediate games or for games requiring multiple stationary pairs.

An alternative movement is a 6.5 table External rover bye stand with a relay. Almost all pairs are bumped by the rover for 2 boards. Creates a one-winner game. 24 boards in play with most players playing 22 of the 24 boards. Retains 6 stationary pairs. A very good movement for novice and intermediate games where 22/24 boards played is a common goal. While this creates a one-winner game there is really only one pair that has alternated between N/S and E/W hands and the real comparison fields are still all the N/S pairs compared to all the other N/S pairs, and the same for the E/W pairs. An alternative is the H7RVR-S variant, which includes an arrow-switch for the last four boards for better balance and a true one-winner game.

The best movement is a 7 table (14 pairs) Howell movement. There are 13 rounds of 2 boards (26 boards). This is the fairest and most competitive movement as each pair plays all the other pairs. You will need to print out a guide card slip for each pair or place table guide cards at each table. If time is short, you can play only 12 rounds. Only the pair starting at 4NS is stationary, so this an be a very slow game with 13 rounds and 13 pairs having to find their places for each new round.

The safest and easiest movement is a 7 table Mitchell movement. You can run this with 3 boards per round (21 boards) or 4 boards per round (28 boards). There are winners in both NS and EW directions. This is the safest movement for directors less familiar with the Howell movement, and the best movement for shorter novice and intermediate games or for games requiring multiple stationary pairs. Not as fair as the Howell movement since each pair competes directly against only 7 of the other 13 pairs, but runs quickly and smoothly.

With 15 pairs, there are options involving sit outs of 2, 3, and 4 boards. The best movement to run is a 13-round Howell movement. Stationary pairs begin at 1NS, 2EW, and 4NS, the latter two switching after round eight. Can be a fairly long game with 13 moving pairs trying to find new spots each round. There is an option for a 12-round Howell (with an extra stationary pair beginning at 5NS) for a slightly shorter game.

An option with a 2-board sit out only and no need for players to find their new spots each round is a 7.5 table External rover. Almost all pairs are bumped by the rover for 2 boards. Creates a one-winner game. 28 boards in play with most players playing 26 of the 28 boards. Retains 7 stationary pairs. While this creates a one-winner game there is really only one pair that has alternated between N/S and E/W hands and the real comparison fields are still all the N/S pairs compared to all the other N/S pairs, and the same for the E/W pairs. A good fix would be to edit the movement (using ACBLscore's EDM command) and create an arrow-switch for the last four boards for better balance and a true one-winner game.

A sit out of only three boards can be achieved with an eight-table Bye stand Mitchell. This is a three-board sit out and pairs that sit out will play only 21 boards. Sharing can be eliminated by arranging it so that there is an E-W sit out at one of the tables that would share boards if there were eight full tables.

The easiest movements to run have the major disadvantage that there is a four-board sit out, and pairs that do sit out play only 24 of 28 boards. These are the 8-table Mitchell (skip after four rounds) with a phantom pair, and the 7-table Mitchell with a rover pair that replaces either N-S pairs or E-W pairs in rounds 2 through 7.

The best movement to run is a Bye stand Mitchell, 8 rounds of 3 boards. All 8 NS pairs meet all 8 EW pairs and the sharing tables seldom have a problem with 3 boards to share.

The easiest movement, and one you might prefer with players who want a 28 (or 21) board game, is a 7-round Mitchell with an EW skip after round 4. Each pair misses one pair in the other direction, but it is the most commonly seen solution for this number.

For a one-winner game, the 13-round Howell movement is the best choice. Stationary pairs begin at 1NS, 2EW, and 4NS, the latter two switching after round eight. Can be a fairly long game with 13 moving pairs trying to find new spots each round. There is an option for a 12-round Howell (with an extra stationary pair beginning at 5NS) for a slightly shorter game.

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for eight tables which is easy to run. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, and with seven rounds of four there is little advantage over a Mitchell, unless you are looking for experience running a Web movement. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-4, tables 5-8 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 5 are out of play, re-entering later at table 4 and 8.

Seventeen pairs can be played as a 9-table Howell with a phantom pair, making the sit out only two boards, but both boards and pairs are factored, which is undesirable.

The best and easiest movement with 17 pairs is a simple 9-table Mitchell with a sit out of three boards, a two-winner game in which the direction that sits out is factored. If all nine rounds are completed, all boards are played the same number of times and need not be factored.

Two options exist that have the major drawback of a long 4-board sit out. An 8-table Mitchell with a rover pair is one that most TDs will be familiar with. The other is an Appendix Mitchell, where tables 1 and 8 share boards and E-W pairs sit out a round after playing at table 8 before re-entering at table 1.

With nine tables, the best movement is also the easiest, a 9-round Mitchell. If 27 boards is too many, the game can be switched to an 8-round game (F9, option 2, allows you to change the number of the starting or ending round) or even a 7-round game.

The nine-table Howell is a choice you might run if you want a one-winner game. Stationary pairs begin at 1NS, 2NS, 6EW, 7NS, and 9NS and all but 1NS switch directions at their table at least once. Pairs miss four opposing pairs of the 17.

The best choice for 19 pairs is a Rover Mitchell, nine rounds of three boards. The rover or bumping pair can be a N-S or an E-W pair and should be one of your fastest pairs. However, there is an added complication: two other pairs, 6EW and 9EW have some irregular movements (switching places in rounds 3, 6, and 9) and should be given guide card slips as well as the rover pair. N-S pairs should be warned to expect the E-W pairs in a strange order. This movement has the advantage over other movements that fewer boards and pairs are missed.

The easier choice, a nine-round Mitchell (skipping after five) with a sit out, has 30 boards in play. Pairs sitting out play only 24 boards and miss six of them.

The easiest and most common solution for 10 tables is a three board per round Mitchell with an EW skip after round five. This is a 9-round game but can be curtailed to eight or seven rounds if desired. If all nine rounds are played, each pair will miss three boards of the 30.

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for ten tables which is easy to run. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, but you need only 27 boards in each set. The technical advantage is that all pairs will play all 27 boards and miss none. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-5, tables 6-10 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 6 are out of play, re-entering later at table 5 and 10.

The ten-table Howell is a choice you might run if you want a one-winner game. Stationary pairs begin at 1NS, 2EW, 3NS, 4EW, 6EW and 9NS and all but 1NS switch directions at their table at least once.

21 pairs is perfect for a nine-round Appendix Mitchell with three boards per round. Table 1 and 10 share boards, EW pairs have a sit out after playing at table ten, then re-enter at table 1.

The 10-table Mitchell with a rover pair (skipping after round five) works, as does an 11-table 9-round Mitchell with a sit out, but these movements have 30 or 33 boards in play and pairs miss more boards than the Appendix Mitchell described above.

Most clubs will want to run a 9-round Mitchell with 33 boards in play. This is simple and familiar to players, but has the disadvantage that all pairs miss six boards.

Clubs with two sets of pre-duplicated boards 1-27 can run an 11-table Web, which is surprisingly easy to run and has the benefit that all players play the same 27 deals. It can even be run with one or zero sets of pre-duplicated boards, by having players twin the boards they play in round one. The first set of pre-duplicated boards goes down one as usual each round, with boards from table one going to table 9 (not 11!). At table 10, the players play boards 1-3 (of the second set) in round one, 4-6 in round two, and so on. At table 11, players play boards 25-27 (of the second set) in round one, 22-24 in round two, and so on. In round five, both table 10 and 11 will play boards 13-15 and must share, but also can borrow table one's copy of 13-15 if needed. East-West pairs move up a table each round, all the way from 1-11 and then back to 1, as normal.

If you have time for ten rounds, an Appendix Mitchell with three boards per round is best, in terms of minimizing the number of boards and pairs missed. Table 1 and table 11 share boards and should be placed adjacent to one another. EW pairs sit out a round after playing at table 11, then re-enter at table 1. Not a good choice if your players will balk at playing ten full rounds: there is a lot of factoring involved if all ten rounds are not completed.

A second good choice is a 12-table Bye stand Mitchell, all pairs play the same 24 boards except for the pair sitting out each round. It is best to set this up as a NS sit out at one of the "sharing" tables, eliminating the need for any sharing at all. This will make for a shorter game of 24 boards, 22 for those pairs sitting out.

Two choices that are not so good are the Rover Mitchell (with 33 boards in play, each pair misses three pairs and 6-9 boards), and the Skip Mitchell with a phantom (36 boards in play, many boards and pairs missed, and six different averages for different pairs before factoring).

The best choice is a Bye stand Mitchell, all pairs play the same 24 boards. At game time, choose three consecutive N-S pairs that are seldom slow and have the first two share boards. Place the bye stand (an extra set of boards on a chair between two tables) at the spot six tables away from the sharing N-S pairs. Example: if NS 8, 9, and 10 are your fastest threesome, have NS 8 and NS 9 share boards and place the bye stand between tables 2 and 3. Because NS 10 is also a faster pair, the sharing tables will seldom have to wait for a board.

The standard nine-round Mitchell, with a skip after six rounds, is not as good because there are 36 boards in play and each pair misses nine of them. If players expect more than 24 boards and two sets of pre-duplicated boards are available, a better choice is a 12-table, 9-round Web movement.

A Mitchell with a sit out (can be NS or EW) is both best and easiest. The alternative, a Bump Mitchell with a skip after six, has 36 boards in play and pairs miss many boards and many pairs.

This is the perfect number of tables for a session. Run it as a regular Mitchell movement with two boards per round. This is an odd number of tables so there is no skip. If there are time constrains, you can end in round 12 or 11.

The best choice, if N-S players can play 14 rounds, is a Bye stand Mitchell, all pairs play the same 28 boards. At game time, choose three consecutive N-S pairs that are seldom slow and have the first two share boards. Place the bye stand (an extra set of boards on a chair between two tables) at the spot seven tables away from the sharing N-S pairs. Example: if NS 8, 9, and 10 are your fastest threesome, have NS 8 and NS 9 share boards and place the bye stand between tables 1 and 2. Because NS 10 is also a faster pair, the sharing tables will seldom have to wait for a board. Not a good choice if your players will balk at playing 14 full rounds: there is a lot of factoring involved if all 14 rounds are not completed.

The next best option is a 13-table Mitchell with a rover, or bumping pair. A 14-table Mitchell (skip after seven rounds) with a sit out can be played, but pairs miss an extra set of boards.

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for 14 tables which is easy to run and can be used with a phantom pair for 13½ tables. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, but you need only 26 boards in each set. The technical advantage is that all pairs will play all 26 boards and miss none. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-7, tables 8-14 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 8 are out of play, re-entering later at table 7 and 14.

The easiest and most common solution for 14 tables is a Mitchell with an EW skip after round seven. This is a 13-round game but can be curtailed to 12 or 11 rounds if desired. If all 13 rounds are played, each pair will miss two boards of the 28.

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for 14 tables which is easy to run. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, but you need only 26 boards in each set. The technical advantage is that all pairs will play all 26 boards and miss none. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-7, tables 8-14 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 8 are out of play, re-entering later at table 7 and 14.

29 pairs is perfect for a 13-round Appendix Mitchell with two boards per round. Table 1 and 14 share boards, EW pairs have a sit out after playing at table 14, then re-enter at table 1. It is a good idea to change the layout of tables so that table 14 is near table 1.

The next best option is a 14-table Mitchell (skip after seven rounds) with a rover, or bumping pair, but pairs miss a set of boards. A 15-table Mitchell (skip after seven rounds) with a sit out can be played, but pairs miss two sets of boards.

Most clubs will want to run a 13-round Mitchell with 30 boards in play. This is simple and familiar to players, but has the disadvantage that all pairs miss four boards.

Clubs with two sets of pre-duplicated boards 1-26 can run a 15-table External Web, which is surprisingly easy to run and has the benefit that all players play the same 26 deals. It can even be run with one or zero sets of pre-duplicated boards, by having players twin the boards they play in round one. The first set of pre-duplicated boards goes down one as usual each round, with boards from table one going to table 13 (not 15!). At table 14, the players play boards 1-2 (of the second set) in round one, 3-4 in round two, and so on. At table 15, players play boards 25-26 (of the second set) in round one, 23-24 in round two, and so on. In round seven, both table 14 and 15 will play boards 13-14 and must share, but also can borrow table one's copy of 13-14 if needed. East-West pairs move up a table each round, all the way from 1-15 and then back to 1, as normal.

Common options are a 15-table Mitchell with a rover, or bumping pair, but pairs miss 4 of 30 boards (6 if sitting out). A 16-table Mitchell (skip after eight rounds) with a sit out can be played, but pairs miss 6 boards of 32 (8 if sitting out).

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for 16 tables which is easy to run and can be run with a phantom pair. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, but you need only 26 boards in each set. The technical advantage is that all pairs will play all 26 boards and miss none, without being split into two separate sections. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-8, tables 9-16 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 9 are out of play, re-entering later at table 8 and 16.

The easiest and most common solution for 16 tables is a Mitchell with an EW skip. The skip can be after round seven or eight and you will be presented with other options to cater to games in which players make the boards before they begin. This is a 13-round game but can be curtailed to 12 or 11 rounds if desired. If all 13 rounds are played, each pair will miss six boards of the 32.

Splitting into two eight-table sections playing a 24-board Bye stand Mitchell is a better option since all pairs play all 24 boards. This is a four-winner game (one from each direction in each section) unless you have the players twin the boards in round one so that you can score across both sections for a combined top, which makes for a combined NS and a combined EW winner. If you do this, you should set the game up so that the boards at the bye stand table in one section are being shared in the other section (for example, if the bye stand in section A is between tables 3-4, in section B it should be between tables 7-8), so that the tables sharing boards can borrow one from the other section if needed.

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for 16 tables which is easy to run. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, but you need only 26 boards in each set. The technical advantage is that all pairs will play all 26 boards and miss none, without being split into two separate sections. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-8, tables 9-16 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 9 are out of play, re-entering later at table 8 and 16.

The best option is to split into two sections of 8 and 8½ tables, a four-winner game (one from each direction in each section) unless you have the players twin the boards in round one so that you can score across both sections for a combined top, which makes for a combined NS and a combined EW winner. Some players will ask why boards 25-27, played only in the 8½-table section, "count double" since they are factored from a 7 top up to a 15 top to match boards 1-24: the answer is that each board is worth a maximum of 100% if played a sufficient number of times, and eight is enough!

Adding a rover to a 16-table Mitchell is an option, but pairs are going to miss at least 6 of the 32 boards in play. With two sets of pre-duplicated boards available, there is an External Web Movement for 16 tables with a rover pair.

Most clubs will want to run a 13-round Mitchell with 34 boards in play. This is simple and familiar to players, but has the disadvantage that all pairs miss eight boards.

Splitting into an eight-table section playing a 24-board Bye stand Mitchell and a nine-table section playing eight rounds of a Mitchell is a better option since fewer boards are missed. This is a four-winner game (one from each direction in each section) unless you have the players twin the boards in round one so that you can score across both sections for a combined top, which makes for a combined NS and a combined EW winner. Some players will ask why boards 25-27, played only in the nine-table section, "count double" since they are factored from a 7 top up to a 15 top to match boards 1-24: the answer is that each board is worth a maximum of 100% if played a sufficient number of times, and eight is enough!

This size can also be run in one section as a External Web Movement, but at least two sets of pre-duplicated boards from 1-26 are required (several boards from a third set are needed to avoid considerable sharing in a few rounds). The movement, especially at tables 14-17, needs to be monitored carefully to ensure that nothing goes wrong. NS pairs at these tables with guide card slips or scoring devices that tell them which pairs and boards to expect should have no trouble.

The best option is to split into two sections of 9 and 8½ tables, a four-winner game (one from each direction in each section) unless you have the players twin the boards in round one so that you can score across both sections for a combined top, which makes for a combined NS and a combined EW winner.

Adding a rover to a 17-table Mitchell is an option, but pairs are going to miss at least 8 of the 34 boards in play. With two sets of pre-duplicated boards available, there is an External Web Movement for 17 tables with a rover pair.

The easiest and most common solution for 18 tables is a Mitchell with an EW skip. The skip can be after round seven (common at tournaments) or nine (common at club games) and you will be presented with other options to cater to games in which players make the boards before they begin. This is a 13-round game but can be curtailed to 12 or 11 rounds if desired. If all 13 rounds are played, each pair will miss ten boards of the 36 in play, a major drawback.

Splitting into two nine-table sections playing a 27-board Mitchell is a better option since all pairs play all 27 boards. This is a four-winner game (one from each direction in each section) unless you have the players twin the boards in round one so that you can score across both sections for a combined top, which makes for a combined NS and a combined EW winner.

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for 18 tables which is easy to run. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, but you need only 26 boards in each set. The technical advantage is that all pairs will play all 26 boards and miss none, without being split into two separate sections. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-9, tables 10-18 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 10 are out of play, re-entering later at table 9 and 18.

The "higher halves": With a half table in any game of more than 18 tables, the normal strategy is to use a suitable movement for that number PLUS a half (for 18½ use a 19-table movement), setting up a sit out, either North-South or East-West. In a bye stand/relay section, it is best to have an East-West sit out so that you can make the missing pair one of the two North-South pairs that share boards, eliminating the need for board sharing entirely. For other types of movements, it is usually best to alternate so that the regulars who always sit the same way don't always (or never) sit out. If you have split the game into two sections playing different numbers of boards, the sit out should be in the section with the shortest rounds. But with this many players you will never face the problem of long sit outs of four boards or more. Any movement can be changed to include a "phantom" pair.

"Going up": With a late pair creating a half-table that you wish to accommodate, you must amend the movement you have begun, adding a rover or bumping pair. Be sure to print copies of the bumping pair's guide card for both players, and print a copy for yourself, so you can warn pairs about to be bumped that they are about to have a sit out.

This size can be run in one section as a External Web Movement, but at least two sets of pre-duplicated boards from 1-26 are required (several boards from a third set are needed to avoid considerable sharing in most rounds). The movement, especially at tables 14-19, needs to be monitored carefully to ensure that nothing goes wrong. NS pairs at these tables with guide card slips or scoring devices that tell them which pairs and boards to expect should have no trouble.

The more common solution is to split into two sections, renumbering entries from 11 up as section B, 1 through 9. Boards 1-27 should be shuffled, played and then twinned in round one, so that players in both sections are playing the same deals. This will make round one a long one for players at A10, who will play Boards 28-30 and have a bit of a wait. Some players will ask why boards 28-30, played only in the ten-table section, "count double" since they are factored from an 8 top up to a 17 top to match boards 1-27: the answer is that each board is worth a maximum of 100% if played a sufficient number of times, and nine is enough!

The solution of playing a 19 table Mitchell by introducing boards 37 and 38 into the set is quite flawed. Pairs miss 12 boards out of 38, almost one third of the boards in play. It's not difficult to split into two sections at game time and get some players to help you redistribute boards. But if this is the only option, make sure you use boards 5 and 6 or 21 and 22 from a second set as the substituted 37 and 38: these have the same dealer/vulnerability combinations as 37 and 38 should. Be very careful how you tape the stickers onto the new boards 37 and 38: the original stickers may come off when the temporary ones are removed. If using travelers, you'll need to ask players to score from the top down (by round number) since few go as far as 19.

The "higher halves": With a half table in any game of more than 18 tables, the normal strategy is to use a suitable movement for that number PLUS a half (for 18½ use a 19-table movement), setting up a sit out, either North-South or East-West. In a bye stand/relay section, it is best to have an East-West sit out so that you can make the missing pair one of the two North-South pairs that share boards, eliminating the need for board sharing entirely. For other types of movements, it is usually best to alternate so that the regulars who always sit the same way don't always (or never) sit out. If you have split the game into two sections playing different numbers of boards, the sit out should be in the section with the shortest rounds. But with this many players you will never face the problem of long sit outs of four boards or more. Any movement can be changed to include a "phantom" pair.

"Going up": With a late pair creating a half-table that you wish to accommodate, you must amend the movement you have begun, adding a rover or bumping pair. Be sure to print copies of the bumping pair's guide card for both players, and print a copy for yourself, so you can warn pairs about to be bumped that they are about to have a sit out.

The easiest and most common solution for 20 tables is to split into two ten-table sections playing a nine-round Mitchell, with a skip after round five. This is a four-winner game (one from each direction in each section) unless you have the players twin the boards in round one so that you can score across both sections for a combined top, which makes for a combined NS and a combined EW winner.

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for 20 tables which is easy to run. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, but you need only 26 boards in each set. The technical advantage is that all pairs will play all 26 boards and miss none, without being split into two separate sections. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-10, tables 11-20 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 11 are out of play, re-entering later at table 10 and 20.

The solution of playing a 20 table Mitchell with a skip, by introducing boards 37-40 into the set is quite flawed. Pairs miss 14 boards out of 40, over one third of the boards in play. It's not difficult to split into two sections at game time and get some players to help you redistribute boards. But if this is the only option, make sure you use boards 5-8 or 21-24 from a second set as the substituted 37-40: these have the same dealer/vulnerability combinations as 37-40 should. Be very careful how you tape the stickers onto the new boards 37-40: the original stickers may come off when the temporary ones are removed. If using travelers, you'll need to ask players to score from the top down (by round number) since few go as far as 19.

The "higher halves": With a half table in any game of more than 18 tables, the normal strategy is to use a suitable movement for that number PLUS a half (for 18½ use a 19-table movement), setting up a sit out, either North-South or East-West. In a bye stand/relay section, it is best to have an East-West sit out so that you can make the missing pair one of the two North-South pairs that share boards, eliminating the need for board sharing entirely. For other types of movements, it is usually best to alternate so that the regulars who always sit the same way don't always (or never) sit out. If you have split the game into two sections playing different numbers of boards, the sit out should be in the section with the shortest rounds. But with this many players you will never face the problem of long sit outs of four boards or more. Any movement can be changed to include a "phantom" pair.

"Going up": With a late pair creating a half-table that you wish to accommodate, you must amend the movement you have begun, adding a rover or bumping pair. Be sure to print copies of the bumping pair's guide card for both players, and print a copy for yourself, so you can warn pairs about to be bumped that they are about to have a sit out.

This size can be run in one section as a External Web Movement, but at least two sets of pre-duplicated boards from 1-26 are required (several boards from a third set are needed to avoid considerable sharing in most rounds). The movement, especially at tables 14-21, needs to be monitored carefully to ensure that nothing goes wrong. NS pairs at these tables with guide card slips or scoring devices that tell them which pairs and boards to expect should have no trouble.

The more common solution is to split into two sections, renumbering entries from 11 up as section B, 1 through 11. Boards 1-30 should be shuffled, played and then twinned in round one, so that players in both sections are playing the same deals. This will make round one a long one for players at B11, who will play Boards 31-33 and have a bit of a wait. Some players will ask why boards 31-33, played only in the eleven-table section, "count double" since they are factored from an 8 top up to a 17 top to match boards 1-27: the answer is that each board is worth a maximum of 100% if played a sufficient number of times, and nine is enough!

The solution of playing a 21 table Mitchell, by introducing boards 37-42 into the set is extremely flawed. Pairs miss 16 boards out of 42, almost 40% of the boards in play. It's not difficult, and probably less time consuming, to split into two sections at game time and get some players to help you redistribute boards. But if this is the only option, make sure you use boards 5-10 or 21-26 from a second set as the substituted 37-42: these have the same dealer/vulnerability combinations as 37-42 should. Be very careful how you tape the stickers onto the new boards 37-42: the original stickers may come off when the temporary ones are removed. If using travelers, you'll need to ask players to score from the top down (by round number) since few go as far as 19.

The "higher halves": With a half table in any game of more than 18 tables, the normal strategy is to use a suitable movement for that number PLUS a half (for 18½ use a 19-table movement), setting up a sit out, either North-South or East-West. In a bye stand/relay section, it is best to have an East-West sit out so that you can make the missing pair one of the two North-South pairs that share boards, eliminating the need for board sharing entirely. For other types of movements, it is usually best to alternate so that the regulars who always sit the same way don't always (or never) sit out. If you have split the game into two sections playing different numbers of boards, the sit out should be in the section with the shortest rounds. But with this many players you will never face the problem of long sit outs of four boards or more. Any movement can be changed to include a "phantom" pair.

"Going up": With a late pair creating a half-table that you wish to accommodate, you must amend the movement you have begun, adding a rover or bumping pair. Be sure to print copies of the bumping pair's guide card for both players, and print a copy for yourself, so you can warn pairs about to be bumped that they are about to have a sit out.

The easiest and most common solution for 22 tables is to split into two eleven-table sections playing a nine-round Mitchell. This is a four-winner game (one from each direction in each section) unless you have the players twin the boards in round one so that you can score across both sections for a combined top, which makes for a combined NS and a combined EW winner.

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for 22 tables which is easy to run. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, but you need only 26 boards in each set. The technical advantage is that all pairs will play all 26 boards and miss none, without being split into two separate sections. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-11, tables 12-22 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 12 are out of play, re-entering soon at table 11 and 22.

The "higher halves": With a half table in any game of more than 18 tables, the normal strategy is to use a suitable movement for that number PLUS a half (for 18½ use a 19-table movement), setting up a sit out, either North-South or East-West. In a bye stand/relay section, it is best to have an East-West sit out so that you can make the missing pair one of the two North-South pairs that share boards, eliminating the need for board sharing entirely. For other types of movements, it is usually best to alternate so that the regulars who always sit the same way don't always (or never) sit out. If you have split the game into two sections playing different numbers of boards, the sit out should be in the section with the shortest rounds. But with this many players you will never face the problem of long sit outs of four boards or more. Any movement can be changed to include a "phantom" pair.

"Going up": With a late pair creating a half-table that you wish to accommodate, you must amend the movement you have begun, adding a rover or bumping pair. Be sure to print copies of the bumping pair's guide card for both players, and print a copy for yourself, so you can warn pairs about to be bumped that they are about to have a sit out.

This size can be run in one section as a External Web Movement, but at least two sets of pre-duplicated boards from 1-26 are required (several boards from a third set are needed to avoid considerable sharing in most rounds). The movement, especially at tables 14-23, needs to be monitored carefully to ensure that nothing goes wrong. NS pairs at these tables with guide card slips or scoring devices that tell them which pairs and boards to expect should have no trouble.

The more common solution is to split into two sections, renumbering entries from 12 up as section B, 1 through 11. Boards 1-33 should be shuffled, played and then twinned in round one, so that players in both sections are playing the same deals. This will make round one a long one for players at A12, who will play Boards 34-36 and have a bit of a wait. Some players will ask why boards 34-36, played only in the twelve-table section, "count double" since they are factored from an 8 top up to a 17 top to match boards 1-27: the answer is that each board is worth a maximum of 100% if played a sufficient number of times, and nine is enough!

The "higher halves": With a half table in any game of more than 18 tables, the normal strategy is to use a suitable movement for that number PLUS a half (for 18½ use a 19-table movement), setting up a sit out, either North-South or East-West. In a bye stand/relay section, it is best to have an East-West sit out so that you can make the missing pair one of the two North-South pairs that share boards, eliminating the need for board sharing entirely. For other types of movements, it is usually best to alternate so that the regulars who always sit the same way don't always (or never) sit out. If you have split the game into two sections playing different numbers of boards, the sit out should be in the section with the shortest rounds. But with this many players you will never face the problem of long sit outs of four boards or more. Any movement can be changed to include a "phantom" pair.

"Going up": With a late pair creating a half-table that you wish to accommodate, you must amend the movement you have begun, adding a rover or bumping pair. Be sure to print copies of the bumping pair's guide card for both players, and print a copy for yourself, so you can warn pairs about to be bumped that they are about to have a sit out.

The easiest and most common solution for 24 tables is to split into two twelve-table sections playing a Bye stand Mitchell of 24 boards. This is a four-winner game (one from each direction in each section) unless you have the players twin the boards in round one so that you can score across both sections for a combined top, which makes for a combined NS and a combined EW winner. If you do this, you should set the game up so that the boards at the bye stand table in one section are being shared in the other section (for example, if the bye stand in section A is between tables 3-4, in section B it should be between tables 9-10), so that the tables sharing boards can borrow one from the other section if needed.

For clubs which have access to pre-duplicated boards, there is a Web movement for 24 tables which is easy to run. Two sets of boards pre-made are required, but you need only 26 boards in each set. The technical advantage is that all pairs will play all 26 boards and miss none, without being split into two separate sections. EW pairs go up one table as normal each round, no skips. Boards from the first set are placed normally at tables 1-12, tables 13-24 get the second set and MUST receive the right ones in round one or you will face major headaches later. The two sets of boards go down a table each round, but boards from table 1 and table 13 are out of play, re-entering soon at table 12 and 24.

The "higher halves": With a half table in any game of more than 18 tables, the normal strategy is to use a suitable movement for that number PLUS a half (for 18½ use a 19-table movement), setting up a sit out, either North-South or East-West. In a bye stand/relay section, it is best to have an East-West sit out so that you can make the missing pair one of the two North-South pairs that share boards, eliminating the need for board sharing entirely. For other types of movements, it is usually best to alternate so that the regulars who always sit the same way don't always (or never) sit out. If you have split the game into two sections playing different numbers of boards, the sit out should be in the section with the shortest rounds. But with this many players you will never face the problem of long sit outs of four boards or more. Any movement can be changed to include a "phantom" pair.

"Going up": With a late pair creating a half-table that you wish to accommodate, you must amend the movement you have begun, adding a rover or bumping pair. Be sure to print copies of the bumping pair's guide card for both players, and print a copy for yourself, so you can warn pairs about to be bumped that they are about to have a sit out.

This size can be run in one section as a External Web Movement, but at least two sets of pre-duplicated boards from 1-26 are required (almost all of a third set are needed to avoid considerable sharing in most rounds). The movement, especially at tables 14-25, needs to be monitored carefully to ensure that nothing goes wrong. NS pairs at these tables with guide card slips or scoring devices that tell them which pairs and boards to expect should have no trouble.

The more common solution is to split into two sections, renumbering entries from 13 up as section B, 1 through 12, playing a 12-round Mitchell of 13 tables in section A and a Bye stand Mitchell in Section B. Boards 1-24 should be shuffled, played and then twinned in round one, so that players in both sections are playing the same deals. This will make round one a long one for players at A13, who will play Boards 25-26 and have a bit of a wait. Some players will ask why boards 25-26, played only in the 13-table section, "count double" since they are factored from an 11 top up to a 23 top to match boards 1-24: the answer is that each board is worth a maximum of 100% if played a sufficient number of times, and nine is enough!

The "higher halves": With a half table in any game of more than 18 tables, the normal strategy is to use a suitable movement for that number PLUS a half (for 18½ use a 19-table movement), setting up a sit out, either North-South or East-West. In a bye stand/relay section, it is best to have an East-West sit out so that you can make the missing pair one of the two North-South pairs that share boards, eliminating the need for board sharing entirely. For other types of movements, it is usually best to alternate so that the regulars who always sit the same way don't always (or never) sit out. If you have split the game into two sections playing different numbers of boards, the sit out should be in the section with the shortest rounds. But with this many players you will never face the problem of long sit outs of four boards or more. Any movement can be changed to include a "phantom" pair.

"Going up": With a late pair creating a half-table that you wish to accommodate, you must amend the movement you have begun, adding a rover or bumping pair. Be sure to print copies of the bumping pair's guide card for both players, and print a copy for yourself, so you can warn pairs about to be bumped that they are about to have a sit out.

Once you get to 26 or more tables, you should split into two or more sections.